TRIP TO GURUDONGMAR LAKE

It is quite challenging to reach a place of very high altitude . As we all know Gurudongmar Lake is situated at an altitude of 17800 ft in the Indian state of Sikkim ,we had to acclimatize our body before reaching that lake .So just before the day of our trip to Gurudongmar lake we halted at Lachen at an altitude of 8838 ft just to take some rest after the long journey from Gangtok and to acclimatize our body to this high altitude so that we do not face any trouble during our visit to the lake .

The Evening On The Eve Of Our Journey

It was a rainy afternoon with heavy wind blowing strongly .It took more than six hours to reach Lachen from Gangtok .The distance between these two places is nearly 120 kilometers but the steep zigzag road and bad weather conditions made it a very tough journey .We were very tired yet excited to enjoy the natural beauty of the place.It was very beautiful.When we reached our room there was still day light .Through the open window the floating cloudlets could be seen .I had not seen such floating cloud before .So I was very happy in my mind . With a cup of tea in my hand I was trying to comfort myself .The chill of the wind was freezing me .So I had to shut the window .But through the glass of the window I could enjoy the nature to my heart’s content .When it was evening nothing could be seen outside .Besides the sound of the wind there was only silence of the mountain .

There is no proper tourist accommodation beyond Lachen. So almost all tourists visiting Gurudongmar Lake stay at Lachen overnight before proceeding to the lake next morning. Tourists come to Lachen mainly to visit the famous & picturesque high altitude Gurudongmar Lake which is located further up at an altitude of 17,800ft near Indo-China (Tibet) border.

Wikipedia On Gurudongmar Lake

Features :-

The lake, fed by glaciers, is located to the north of the Kangchengyao range, in a high plateau area connected with the Tibetan Plateau. It provides one of the source streams which joins the Tso Lahmu and then form the source of the Teesta River. The lake remains completely frozen in the winter months, from November to Mid-May.

The lake has an area of 118 hectares (290 acres) and its peripheral length is 5.34 kilometres (3.32 mi). However, the size of the lake appears small at the place where the devotees offer worship because the larger part of the lake is not visible due to hilly topography obstructing the view. The area surrounding the lake, also known as Gurudongmar, is inhabited by Yaks, blue sheep and other wildlife of high altitude.

The lake is of fresh water and used to be very clear; the bed of the lake could even be seen from the middle of the lake. Pollution has muddied the waters in recent years, and the lake has taken on a white tinge and has obscured visibility.

In Folklore :-

A legend related to the frozen condition of the lake is linked to the visit of Guru Padmasambhava to the lake, on his way back from Tibet. When he saw it, he felt that it was worthy of veneration, as it represented the divine location of Dorje Nyima or Chhoedten Nyima. Because the lake remained frozen most of the year with no possibility of providing for drinking water needs, the people of the area appealed to Padmasambhva to help them. The guru agreed to help and placed his hands on a small part of the lake area, which stopped freezing during winter, facilitating drinking water to the people. Since then, the lake has been considered sacred and devotees carry this sacred water in containers.

According to another legend, when Padmasambhava visited the lake he saw an auspicious phenomenon and then he considered it a good augury to enter the mainland of Sikkim, then known as Demojong.

Some stories say that in the 15th century, Sikh Guru Nanak Dev Ji passed through the lake while on his return from Tibet, he was asked by the local people of Gurudongmar Village to help make the frozen lake a source of drinking water during the winter period, he touched part of the lake with his walking stick, making the lake free of snow throughout the year. The stories also say that he blessed the lake, announcing to the villagers that “whoever takes the water of this lake will gain virility and strength”. According to this story, disputed by the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, the lake and the surrounding hills derive their name from Guru Nanak’s visit.

Journey to Gurudongmar Lake :-

We started from Lachen early in the morning (by 5:30am) because we need to be back by lunch time. The weather near Gurudongmar usually starts becoming bad as the day progresses, so we need to leave the lake area and start for Lachen as soon as possible .

The Breaking Of The Morning

After the heavy rain on the previous evening the morning was fresh and quite sunny.Due to the rain the road became very slippery .Some one told us that the road was blocked due to heavy snowfall ,and we could go upto the check point just five kilometers away from Gurudongmar Lake .Our heart became very heavy .Still with positive note we started our journey .

Our first stop was at Thangu, a tiny hamlet with only handful of village huts and a large army base. Thangu is a valley with lush meadows located at an altitude of 13,000ft and about 35kms north of Lachen. It takes over 2hours to reach Thangu from Lachen. Within couple of hours the altitude changes by about 4,000ft. So you can imagine how steep the road is. There are a few stalls here where you can take tea and have hot noodles for your breakfast.

One can distinctly notice the change in foliage as we get to Thangu. From green forests or large trees, the foliage changes to mostly smaller bushes.One can see either brown soil of the mountain or the white snow or the blue sky .

At this high altitude one may feel vomiting tendency and dizziness .One might even face problem in hearing . People with high blood pressure and heart problem should avoid visiting this place .One might even face breathing problem .So it would be advisable to carry a small oxygen cylinder while visiting this place . One must carry hot water in a flask .Only hot water can give some relief in such places .

After reaching the police check point just five kilometers away from Gurudongmar lake we were told that the road is still closed and we can not go any farther .We have heard it in the home stay already so we just tried to console ourselves .We got down from the Bolero jeep .It was snowing there .This was the first occasion that am experiencing a snow fall .So I was very happy and excited . I thanked God for such a great experience . The snow flex were very light and falling like feather .It was amazing . We spent almost ten minutes outside and then decided to return .The other motors were also returning so we too had to return .So we started to get into the motor one by one with heavy heart .

Suddenly a police guard rushed to us and told that the road is open now as the weather is becoming clear ,so we may go to Gurudongmar Lake .We all shouted ‘HURRAH ‘ and the next moment our driver turned the motor on the road towards Gurudongmar Lake . We were on our way to Gurudongmar Lake . Miracle happens ,at least it happened during our trip to the lake .We were just five kilometers away from the lake .The road was very bad. On both the sides of the road there was at least three to four feet high snow still there after clearing the road . At last we reached the lake .

It was feeling like Heaven . Still we had to walk nearly half a kilometer to reach the actual spot .It was still snowing .The walk to reach the lake was too tough as we are not habituated at such a high altitude .We all were almost out of our breathes .We were not actually feeling well in such a climatic condition . But the thrill to see one of the highest lakes of the world and in India kept us ready to reach our destination .

It was a all frozen lake . The lake is named after Guru Padmasambhava—also known as Guru Rinpoche—founder of Tibetan Buddhism, who visited in the 8th century It was a all frozen lake . It was an awesome experience to see the lake .We are grateful to God for giving us the chance to see the lake .

Gurudongmar Lake P.C. SUKANYA ROY CHOUDHURY
The Frozen Beauty P.C. SUKANYA ROY CHOUDHURY
Snow White Gurudongmar Lake P.C. SUKANYA ROY CHOUDHURY

The all white frozen beauty of the lake is just beyond my expression . I cherish to go there again in a different season to enjoy the heavenly beauty again .

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